Waiting for the Supply boat

It’s been a lovely couple of days anchored here at Great Harbour Cay. The wind has been strong from the north but we’ve been nicely protected in our anchorage. The biggest challenge for us is to get into the island mindset – slow down!!

On Tuesday the wind was down enough for us to head over to the beach on Cistern Cay. This was a 2 part adventure. Firstly we wanted to get off the boat and walk around a bit and secondly, Mark had a job to do (of course). The hoses to the toilet in the forward head needed some attention. Salt water and urine combine in the hoses to create calcium chloride deposits which constrict the flow of water. Every couple of years, Mark takes the hoses off and beats them up a bit to loosen the stuff. It’s a messy job but at least it’s only needed every couple of years. Our beach destination was perfect for this job and for a little walk – little being the key word. It was a small beach.

With cleaner hoses, we left the beach and did a dinghy tour around the area. First we stopped at the plane wreck which was hard to miss as it was sticking out of the water. The plane, a DC 3, was apparently a drug running plane that crashed years ago. That’s the story anyhow. It was interesting because it was very visible. We next went around to the west side of Cistern Cay and saw a few boats anchored there. It was a bit bouncy so not sure why those 2 boats chose to stay in that anchorage. Our last stop was the blue hole. A blue hole is a very deep spot amongst shallow water. This one is well over 100 ft deep and it is surrounded by water that’s about 3 ft or less at low tide.

Today, Dec. 4th, we decided to go into town. The settlement on Great Harbour Cay is called Bullocks Harbour. It’s a laid back town (like most of the Bahamas) and we were able to walk all around with little traffic. The plan was to get a good walk in and also check on the supply boat. The boat usually comes in on Wednesdays and Fridays but it hadn’t arrived yet today. We walked to the grocery store and were told that the boat didn’t come today because of the weather but should be here tomorrow. Okay – we were planning to leave tomorrow but instead we’ll stay and hopefully get some fresh produce on Thursday.

After our visit to town we decided to dinghy over to the marina which is just south of the town. We tied up there and went for a really good walk all the way out to the airport. It’s a small airport but does have an international arrivals side so there are flights from the USA. We were looking at the runway when Mark commented that they must be expecting a plane (there were a few waiting cars and people around). Mark had barely finished saying those words when a little plane landed just behind us! He was right!!

Tomorrow we’ll head back to the grocery store if the supply boat shows up. On Friday we’ll be heading south to Bond Cay. We spent a bit of time at Bond Cay last season waiting to cross to Nassau for our February flight home for Evelyn’s defence. Our goal for this stay at Bond Cay is to get our water maker up and running!!

Half of the little beach on Cistern Cay.
Cleaning out hoses and other parts from the toilet.
Crimson Kathryn is just to the right.
One of the engines from the DC 3.
The darkest blue in this photo is the blue hole.
The government dock at Bullocks Harbour.
Walking towards the airport we saw this wreck of a building.
The east side of Great Harbour Cay.
Just hanging out at the airport!
Nice looking terminal.
The cut to get in and out of the marina.

Nice to relax

Our jump down to Great Harbour Cay was exactly what we expected!! We had strong northeast wind that pushed us along at speeds ranging from low 6 knots up the low 8 knots. It was a gray, cloudy day but the rain held off which was nice. We left Ginn Sur Mer around 6:30 Saturday (Nov. 30) morning and arrived at our anchorage in the dark at 7 pm. We’ve anchored here before in the dark so it was easy to drop the hook into a good sandy spot.

The first day of December was a very rainy one here. Great way to clean off our salty deck from the sail down. We had decided the night before that we were going to do absolutely nothing on Dec. 1. We have been going hard without a true day long break since we left Canada on Oct. 27!! And we’ve travelled over 420 nm in 8 days. Some time off was definitely needed!! We started our day with a super slow breakfast. Mark made himself some French toast and topped it with some whipped cream! We drank our coffee and relaxed with our devices.

The extend of my activities for the day was to do some dishes, clean up the cockpit from our travels and lastly I decorated the inside of the boat for Christmas! Mark ran the Honda generator which we greatly needed after a long sailing day that had no sun and not enough wind to keep up with our energy expenditure. It sure felt good to not travel somewhere and to not do boat jobs.

Our anchorage is fairly large but well protected from the northeasterly wind we’re getting for the next few days. There are 2 other boats with us – one large power boat from Canada and one other sailboat. It’s very quiet here and with the rain yesterday and the strong winds today, we haven’t seen anyone moving around. Hopefully Tuesday will be a better weather day and we will be able to explore the area.

First sail of the season. Heading south to Great Harbour Cay early in the morning Nov. 30.
Lots of large tankers are anchored outside of the Freeport harbour.
French toast breakfast!
Sunset from Great Harbour Cay Dec. 1.
Christmas on Crimson Kathryn.

Calmest crossing ever!

This is the first time we have crossed to the Bahamas in such low wind. No sailing but boy was the ocean calm. We left Vero Beach at 8:30 am Nov. 28th and had a great ebb current moving us south to Fort Pierce. It’s always nice when the current works with you and not against. We were going out the Fort Pierce Inlet by 10:50 am.

We’ve also never crossed to the Bahamas from so far north. Normally we go to Lake Worth or further south because of the north flowing Gulf Stream. We had been given some advice about the directions to cross from Fort Pierce, so we created a course on the plotter that started with a heading of 140 degrees (southeast), then turned 90 degrees (east) when the current got too strong and the last leg was 150 degrees (south east). We got as far south as St. Lucie Inlet when our speed was dropping too much as we entered the Gulf Stream. We made our 90 degree (ish) turn and headed across the stream.

It was a very peaceful motor across Gulf Stream. There was very little traffic and with the light winds, there were no waves to impede our progress. After a short time we saw another sailboat heading our way so we kept tabs on that boat the whole way across. It can get a little boring so it’s fun to watch the AIS signals on the water. This automatic identification system (AIS) gives lots of info about the vessel including name, length, speed, type of vessel and very importantly it gives you the closest approach distance and the time to that approach. At night this is super helpful when tankers and cruise ships appear to be heading straight for you!! We had some fun watching 2 small pleasure crafts play chicken with 2 tankers!! At one point, the 4 AIS signals (which appear as green triangles on our plotter) were almost one on top of the other. Of course when you zoomed in on the plotter, you could see lots of space between all the vessels.

We made our turn to the south around midnight and were still getting some current from the Gulf Stream. It didn’t take long before we were in the faster Bahamian water and our speed picked up. It was a very dark night but as we approached West End, we could see the onshore lights – a very comforting thing. We decided to anchor just north of West End until morning. We got into the anchorage a little before 3 am.

This spot is known for poor holding and it proved true for us. Our anchor wasn’t grabbing so Mark decided to lower our second anchor just to make sure we didn’t drag when the tide changed. We were off to bed by 3:30 am.

Up early on Nov. 29th, just before 7 am. We had a great breakfast and then prepared to head into Old Bahama Bay Marina to clear into the Bahamas and to buy our SIM card for our wifi. We started the process of raising the 2 anchors around 8:30 and after much effort and a bit of struggle, both anchors were onboard by 9 am. We headed into the marina and by 10am we were cleared in and approved!! Unfortunately the shop that sold SIM cards didn’t open until 12pm and then the card had to be driven out to us from Freeport so it took until 2pm to finally have our wifi up and running. 

We’re now anchored at Ginn Sur Mer and happily relaxing for the night. Tomorrow we’ll jump down to Great Harbour Cay with some nice north east wind. It’s another long trip – about 80nm, but we’ll stay there for a few days and finally chill!!

Leaving Vero Beach City Marina. Thanks Julia for the great photo.
New bridge construction that will replace the North Fort Pierce bascule bridge.
Heading out the Fort Pierce inlet.
Bed is all made up for our night passage.
Captain in the sunset.
Sunset on the ocean., Nov. 28th
Tied up at the Customs and Immigration dock at Old Bahama Marina.
Our dolphin welcome party as we moved to Ginn Sur Mer.
Sunset at Ginn Sur Mer, Nov. 29.

What the heck is that

There’s a phrase I wasn’t expecting to hear during our Reynolds Park to Vero Beach passage!! But heard it I did from Mark early Monday morning as we got close to Cape Canaveral.

Before I tell you that story, let’s go back to the first part of our journey. We had a very good motor north to Jacksonville on Saturday, Nov. 23. The wind was still blowing quite strongly at 9 am so we delayed our departure until 11:30am when the wind died down enough for us to get off of the pier. The river was fairly empty and we had no trouble getting to our anchorage on the north east of the city. We were anchored at Blount Island by 5:30pm. The only problem that first night was that a dredging operation arrived during the evening and started running around 10pm. The machinery was opposite us on the west side of the river but it was very loud! It kept me awake most of the night!!

By Sunday morning I was very eager to get going so we pulled up anchor around 9am. We had the ebb current and were doing about 9 knots down the St. John’s river to the ocean. It was great fun zooming along and again the river was fairly empty. It was a very good way to start our 24 hour motor on the outside down to Cape Canaveral.

The wind prediction was spot on for Sunday and Monday. The ocean was flat as a pancake and we motored along at our usual 6 knots with barely any rolling. It was a very pleasant passage. As the day progressed, we heard a coast guard announcement about Cape Canaveral – a space x launch was happening at 2:32 am Monday and the security zone would be in effect until the fuel booster was collected. Okay what does that mean for us?? We get to see a launch from the ocean – up close and personal!! It also meant that we had to do a slightly wider approach to the Cape Canaveral inlet to avoid the security zone. No worries!

2:30 am rolls around and we’re close to the launch area. We’re all ready with our phones to take photos. We’re pretty sure we see where the rocket is on the launch pad! We wait…and nothing happens!! After waiting about 45 minutes, we decided the launch was probably cancelled. Oh well! So we go back to overnight routine of taking turns napping. A little before 5 am we were both up and all of a sudden this bright orange light pierced the sky right infront of us. And Mark says “WHAT THE HECK IS THAT”. Well you guessed it, the rocket launched! It was spectacular and loud!! We had front row seats and it was super cool. It only lasted a few minutes and then the rocket was out of sight.

The rest of our journey into Cape Canaveral was uneventful, just the way we like it. We stopped at a marina to get a bit of fuel and then continued all the way to Melbourne where we anchored for the night.

Today (Nov. 26) we made the short 32nm trip down the ICW to Vero Beach City Marina and we’re now on a mooring ball for a few days. It looks like we will be crossing to the Bahamas very quickly. There is a no wind crossing this Thursday and Friday so we’re aiming to leave here on Thursday and arrive in the Bahamas on Friday! Crazy fast!

Heading down the St. John’s River.
The railway bridge at Jacksonville.
Military dry dock near the mouth of the St. John’s River.
The ocean is very calm.
Sunset Nov. 24.
Rocket launch!!
Incredible sky as the sun rose on Nov. 25.
Going through the lock at Cape Canaveral.
So many pelicans in the lock area.
Tied up at Vero Beach!

Goodbye to Reynolds Park

We’re leaving the dock today Nov 23. The wind has lessened and the ebb current is slightly pushing us off of the pier. This is a very quick post just to give our plan. Tonight we’ll be on the east side of Jacksonville. On Sunday we’ll jump on the outside and motor (no wind for the next few days) all the way down to Cape Canaveral. That’s about a 24 hour journey. After that it will take one more day to get down to Vero Beach. We’ll have wifi again when we get there and I will do a longer post!

Mark is freeing the wind generator.
A new little moose/air plant decoration for the boat!
Looking down the river.
Bye Reynolds Park – it’s been a great 6 seasons.
We’re ready to cast off

Hoping to leave soon

The days are flying by as we work towards leaving the dock and heading south. The jobs are also quickly getting either completed or completed enough to get underway. We start each day with a list of things to accomplish and so far we’ve been meeting our goals!

It’s a good sized list of jobs we’ve managed to check off our list since moving over to the pier. The first unexpected job was to get the water heater working. After a bit of trouble shooting, Mark discovered that the heating element in the water heater wasn’t working so it was replaced! He also spent a bit of time flushing out the tank which was greatly needed. All water maker parts are secured in their new homes. We removed our old safe – that was a heavy job!! We used the main halyard to hoist the thing from inside the boat over to the pier. Mark has completed all the engine checks (tested the new fuel pump, changed fuel filters and oil, etc).

We’ve also done some outside jobs. The Bimini (top) of the enclosure has been waterproof – something we haven’t done for many years. All the sails are in place after a huge struggle with the jib which was supposed to be a quick easy job! It wasn’t. For some strange reason, the halyard (which attaches to the swivel head that leads the jib up the forestay) kept twisting as we hoisted the sail. We’d get about halfway up and the line would become so tight around the forestay that the sail couldn’t be hoisted any further. We tried so many different tricks to get the line to stop twisting and none worked! Finally for the last trick, Mark used a slip knot with a long rope attached to connect the spinning shackle to the stationary shackle on the furler swivel. That worked and we managed to hoisted the jib to the top and then furl it tightly around the forestay! And the dinghy motor has been mounted on the dinghy transom and the motor started well!

Another big job was to figure out all the hoses, connectors and special parts we need to finish the air conditioning and water maker installations. Mark spent several hours measuring and drawing out the installations so he could create a list of all the parts we would need. We then headed to ACE hardware and Home Depot to purchase all the bits and pieces!

Lastly, we spent today (Nov. 20) provisioning for our 5 month trip! This is the longest we’ve had to buy for and our freezer is bursting! We couldn’t buy all that I had planned because we just couldn’t fit it all in! We went to 4 grocery stores – Costco, Aldi, Publix and Winn Dixie and of course the ABC (liquor store). It’s one happy boat right now!

We still have things to do before we can cast off but we’re hoping to be heading down the St. John’s river by this weekend. It’s all coming together nicely.

Deck full of sails on the pier.
Success after much frustration.
Mark is working on the water heater.
New home for the water maker pump.
Main sail is in place.
Mizzen sail is going on.
Costco provisioning run!! Yes there is food in there somewhere!

Out of the Treehouse and into the water

Finally we’re back on the water!! It’s been a long week living on the hard and to top it all, our final night on the hard was spent in the travel lift slings, suspended about 10 inches off the ground. The very last spots under the stands needed to be painted and left to dry for 10 hours – that’s why we spent the night just hanging there.

The good part about the wait for the propeller shaft was that we were able to focus on a lot of other jobs and had time to complete quite a few! The days have kind of all blurred together but there has been a few stand out moments.

It’s been the time of the saw! The old air conditioning units have been removed and that required some cutting of copper pipes, wrestling with heavy units and motors plus lots of wire cables being moved. The new units have been put in place but are not connected yet – that’s a job for later down the river. The aft unit went into the new spot very easily with lots of room to spare. The spot for main cabin unit, which is larger than the aft cabin unit, needed a fair amount of adjusting – out came the saw again. It was a noisy, messy job but with some ingenuity, Mark managed to get the unit to fit.

The new inverter took a bit of time to install. It fits perfectly in the old inverter’s spot but the wiring for the new one was a challenge. Mark managed to get all the wires connected and the inverter box was secured in its new home in just a few hours. That job lead to the purchase of a new microwave! Our old one was all rusty and disgusting so we decided to look for a new one. Lots of choices and they’re cheap!!

Our final big jobs were all done on the last day (Nov. 14). We started the day by moving the 2 heavy water maker boxes onboard. We used our main halyard to hoist both boxes onto the deck and then into the cockpit. One box contained the 2 – 45 inch membranes and the second box contained the pump. We next moved onto clearing out the compartment under the floorboards below the main cabin table. This compartment held one of our original water tanks. That tank got holes several years ago and we ended up cutting the top of aluminum tank and placing a rubber bladder in there. Now the bladder is gone and the whole top of the old water tanks has been removed. The two membranes are secured in this space and the pump will be going in another storage compartment under our cabin seats.

While this job was ongoing, the propeller shaft arrived!!! So the water maker job stopped and we went to work on the new shaft. Before we could start work on the shaft, we quickly had to remove the forestay because the travel lift was heading to us to complete our bottom paint job. The cutlass bearing had been installed at the beginning of the week so we were good to put the shaft back in by ourselves. Mark added a “dripless shaft seal” that complicated the job a bit. Fortunately the new shaft was a perfect fit and the re-installation went well. As we were working on the shaft, the final bottom paint was going on the spots where the boat stands were placed and under the keel. At around 4pm, we went back to work on the membrane install and then cleaned up the main cabin! It was a long, very productive day.

It was an early morning today (Nov. 15) – up at 6am and moving to the water by 8 am. Our launch was smooth with no problems. Once tied up at the launch dock, Mark started the engine (always a bit of a tense moment) and it ran like a charm!! We had a very windy morning so getting off the launch dock was a challenge but getting onto the pier was even more fun!! We had wind and current pushing us into the pier. Good thing we had Brad and Julia helping us with lines and muscle power. It took some strength to keep us off the wooden platforms on the pier and to get our fenders in position. In the end we tied up at spot 12 and sighed with relief!! We’re back in the water at last.

Looking up the mast
New air conditioning unit for the aft cabin.
Inverter is under the new microwave.
We’re getting very good at moving our forestay!
The shaft arrived! I’m happy.
Water maker membranes.
Happy boat and crew!

Moving Aboard

I probably shouldn’t tell you this but I’m going to anyhow. We’ve moved aboard Crimson Kathryn – on the hard!! Unfortunately our time at the Airbnb has run out but we’re still waiting for the new propeller shaft to arrive. Our choices were to find a hotel for the next 5 or more nights or live on the boat clandestinely!! We chose to save money and become land pirates😁! As I mentioned in my previous post, contractors from the yard next to Reynolds have been working on the weekends so our gate has been open allowing us to access to our boat. Turns out this weekend is Remembrance Day weekend and so far no one is working in the other yard and the gate is still locked! Are we trapped? Stuck in here for the long 3 day weekend? Nope! As we were walking in at the end of the day on Friday (Nov. 8), Mark noticed the lock to our gate was hanging open. He decided to check if it was a combination lock or a keyed one. Sure enough it was a combo lock and the combination was still in place! Mark checked later last night and it is the correct lock combination! Freedom at our fingertips.

The jobs are continuing. The dinghy repair is done and it’s back with us in the yard. All the “must do before going in the water” jobs are also done (except for the propeller shaft and cutlass bearing). Now we are working on the other improvement jobs. Mark has removed the old air conditioning unit in the aft cabin and will start removing the main cabin unit soon. We’re adding little fans to the aft cabin – that’s today’s job. The engine will get a fuel pump repair fairly soon also. The new inverter needs to be installed. It’s a funny (not so funny) story about our inverter. It was working fine for the first few days after our arrival. On about day 3, our friends Jackie and Tom stopped by for a chat and told us about their inverter which was damaged during a thunderstorm this summer. After they left, Mark tried to use our inverter and it had stopped working!! Somehow the darn thing was listening to the story and decided to join the dead inverter club. Or maybe it was just a coincidence 😁.

We’ve decided to delay some of our more time consuming and weather dependent jobs until later. We really want to get going as soon as possible and we’ve already been delayed because of the shaft replacement. The semco teak work and the non-skip deck painting will be done when we’re further south – maybe at Vero Beach. The water maker and air conditioners can be installed at any time. We can easily get good water in the Bahamas so no hurry for the water maker and we can only run the air conditioning when we’re at a dock. Once we leave here, we probably won’t be at a dock again until we reach the Wardle’s on New Providence.

(A reminder – the small photos can be clicked on to enlarge them. You can then scroll between the photos in the “gallery“.)

Mark’s new post-it note job board. To do / on going / completed.
Our new main cabin cushions fit perfectly.
I’m very happy with them!
Removing the old aft cabin air conditioner.
Old cushions going to the garbage.
Moving in early Friday (Nov. 8) morning.

Working Weekend

We got lucky this past weekend (Nov. 2 – 3). There are some men working on a ship in the yard just past our boat and the access to this vessel is through the Reynolds boat yard. So these guys work all weekend and therefore, we could too!!

Many jobs were completed over the weekend (and part of today). The interior of the boat is now clean and mostly organized. The galley has been washed and all the dishes have been returned to their shelves. The fridge and freezer have been washed and they are both ready to be filled (once we’ve moved aboard).

Mark spent a good deal of time finishing the installation of our new emergency rudder. This emergency rudder uses one of our interior doors as the rudder. The “rudder” door is normally the door to our aft cabin which we rarely close. Now it has a few holes in strategic places. Mark made 2 long poles that connect together with the door to become the rudder. All parts of the emergency rudder are stored inside the boat with relatively easy access. Here’s hoping we never have to use it!!

The job list has had some satisfying cross offs, including washing all the boat fenders; emptying boxes and vacuum sealed bags and taking the dinghy to a shop to be repaired. The hardest job we worked on this past weekend was reinstalling the windlass (which Mark brought home to work on). The windlass is on deck and inside the chain locker. It’s very heavy and access is terrible. After much cursing, sweating and just hanging around on deck (that was me 😁), the windlass is back in place and working perfectly. There are other jobs that are still ongoing – the hull is about 70% polished (and looks great) and our new name decal for the stern needs to be placed. Of course the last big job that must be completed before we go in the water is the propeller shaft and cutlass bearing.

It hasn’t been all work – on Sunday evening Julia, Brad and Finn came over to our Airbnb for dinner. We had a lovely salmon meal with a great fruit dessert (thanks Julia). It was wonderful to relax and chit chat away from the boat yard.

We’ve started taking packages to the boat.
Clean galley shelves with a new shelf liner.
Reinstalled instruments that have been expertly polished by Mark.
Sitting on the bow working on the windlass reinstall.
Windlass pieces. I’m on deck and Mark is inside the chain locker.
Not easy access for the windlass but at least the mattresses look comfy.
GoodYear blimp flew by!

Moving along

Four work days are done and we’re getting things accomplished. Mark’s first big job, removing the propeller shaft and the cutlass bearing,  went really well. Turns out if you lubricate bolts in the spring and leave them for 6 months, they turn quite easily. That work was done by mid morning and at the end of the day, Kyle (the go to guy at Holland Marine) came over to remove the propeller. The bad news from this job is that we need a new propeller shaft on top of the cutlass bearing. The shaft has to be sent to a company on the west coast of Florida who will make a new one for the boat but that job will take 7-10 business days. Earliest the new shaft will be here is Thursday, November 7th – our scheduled launch date. So if all goes well, the shaft will arrive and it plus the cutlass bearing will be reinstalled on Nov. 7th and we can be launched on Friday, November 8th. We’re super hopeful this will happen because we have to check out of our Airbnb on Nov 8th and we can’t stay in the boat in the yard.

Other jobs are being completed too. The deck and cockpit were washed. The enclosure has been put up. Sails were moved from the inside of the boat and the interior has been washed and is being organized for moving aboard. Mark has started polishing the hull and working on his newly built emergency rudder.

We’ve been making daily runs to the office to pick up all the parcels that have been arriving. It’s like Christmas down here!! Our Airbnb unit is filling up with boxes. Next week we’ll start bringing all these new items back to the boat. Right now there’s not really room for all the stuff because our normal storage area – the V-berth – needs to be washed and sorted. That’s my job for Friday (Nov. 1).

Tonight, Halloween, we’re going out for dinner with Julia and Brad. Thought we’d take a break and see what St. Augustine is like on Halloween. Should be fun!!

So much stuff to go to the boat.
All clean!
Polishing the hull is a tough job
Lots of hard to get into places at the stern. It took both of us to complete this job.