Marina Time!

As a little treat to ourselves and our guests, we decided to book a slip in a very swanky marina called Blue Haven Resort and Marina. It’s located in the north east side of Providenciales. We had originally booked our two week stay for March 17 – 31 but because we were so early in getting to the area, we decided to modify our dates and go in 2 days earlier. We headed into the marina on Friday, March 15. It was the best idea ever!!

Before our decadent marina stay, we moved from our first anchorage between Mangrove and Donna Cay on March 12 because it was crazy busy with tour boat traffic. We had a rocky breakfast that morning as the wakeboarding powerboats cruised by us. We figured it should be calmer right near the marina so we pulled up anchor and moved. It turned out to be a very good spot – we could watch all the tour boat action but weren’t bothered (too much) by wakes.

The next day, March 13, we decided to go for a big walk to a bird sanctuary nearby. We took the dinghy over to Blue Haven and asked to tie up at one of their docks. The marina has 24 hour security and the gate into the docks can only be opened by the guard on duty. The guard gave us permission to tie up to the main dock and we told him we’d be back in a few hours. It was a very hot, sunny day and the 6-7km walk tired us out. We were really looking forward to heading back to the boat and maybe going for a swim. The guard opened the gate for us and as we approached the dinghy we could see that it had been booted!! Our dinghy was locked to the dock!! We were so confused. Mark headed up to the office and after a discussion (which included security video footage of the true offending dinghy – not us but another guy who had abused docking privileges the day before), the head of security realized they’d made a mistake and let us go! We had a good laugh about it during happy hour that night.

Friday, March 15 was a super windy day – over 20knots of wind. We were assigned a slip on the outside of the marina and with the strong southerly wind, Mark moved us into the slip smoothly. This marina is very new and they have a wonderful cleat system. All the very large dock cleats (what your dock lines tie up to) are in a slot rail. After temporarily securing your boat, the dock hands get an impact drill, unscrew the bolts and move the cleats to the perfect position to properly secure your boat. It’s very slick! By lunch we were all tied up and relaxing at the dock.

As the name says – Blue Haven is a resort and marina. We have access to all of the resort stuff – the beach and more importantly, the pool!! There are also bars and restaurants which we can visit. The resort is all-inclusive but because we’re at the marina (not the resort), we have to pay for our drinks and meals. It’s still very nice to have access to all the resort amenities. It became our late afternoon event to go to the pool and then get a drink. We called it a dip and sip!

We also took advantage of the free shuttle that takes you to Blue Haven’s sister resort which is within walking distance to shops and more restaurants. We had a fun day looking around the shops and the other resort. We also decided to rent a car for 3 days so we could explore the whole island and go out for dinner at a restaurant in town.

All in all we had a fabulous time with Donalda and Bill. We managed to see lots of Providenciales, get some good walks in and finish lots of wine and at least one full bottle of rum! We took the Stevens to the airport this morning. We did laundry and have cleaned the boat up for our next visitors – Evelyn, Caroline and their friend, Samantha. Super excited to have them onboard!!

Anchored south of Blue Haven Marina.
A transparent tour boat – who needs to snorkel?
This dolphin followed us for awhile when we moved to our second anchorage near Blue Haven.
There’s a small canal system behind the marina.
Some interesting boats in the canals.
Many happy hours in the cockpit.
And also by the pool – dip and sip!
Lots of turtles in the area – a bit camera shy!
Our slip and you can see the rail system for the cleats.
Pool time.
No luck fishing (thanks for the photo, Donalda).
There are lots of pelicans around the area.
Snorkel time.
Northwest Point Nature Reserve.
Walked to the point. Bahamas are out there somewhere!
Lunch at Bugaloos on the beach.
Last night dinner out at Mango Reef Restaurant.
Heading home with Donalda’s new bling sandals.

First week with the Stevens

Donalda and Bill arrived on March 7th and we rented a car to meet them at the airport. It was an easy pickup and we were back at the boat having lunch by 1pm. After spending some money on the island buying enough groceries for the next 2 weeks, we ventured out to The Bight area for their Thursday night fish fry. It was a very busy spot and we enjoyed some yummy local food!

We left South Side marina around 8:30am on March 8th and headed to West Caicos. It was a perfect wind morning and we hoisted our spinnaker for the first time this season! What a glorious sail we had for the 12 nm trip to the north anchorage at West Caicos. This area, known as Brenard Bay, is quite shallow and you need to keep an eye out for coral heads as you enter. We spent a very interesting 2 nights here. We walked the beach and took a long dinghy ride down the west side of West Caicos. There’s lots of diving in this area and mooring balls (for the commercial dive boats) are positioned all along the coast. We did a bit of snorkeling in one area – saw lots of fish and a ray but the coral wasn’t very healthy.

Our first night in this anchorage was calm and quiet until something very strange happened. It was dark; Mark was at the bbq, Bill was on the bow and Donalda and I were in the cockpit. We could hear this loud noise like an airplane flying low. Bill is the first to notice the boat navigational lights coming straight for us. Okay the noise isn’t a plane – it’s a boat speeding directly at us! We had lots of lights on – cockpit lights, interior lights but I ran down and turned on the anchor light (which I’d forgotten to do earlier) to make us even more visible. At the last moment (or at least that’s the way it felt), the big powerboat changed course and slowed to within about 30 – 40 ft of our boat. This all white boat with no markings (no name or any way to identify it) started at our bow, turned along side of us and gave us a really good look before it sped off towards West Caicos. It was super creepy and we speculated all night about this suspicious and scary boat – were they military on patrol or drug runners!! In the morning (Sat. March 9), we found the boat tied up in the basin of the abandoned marina on the northwest side of West Caicos. We decided not to approach them although we were super curious!

On Sunday morning (March 10) we decided to move slightly further north to the anchorage Mark and I had hung out in while waiting for Donalda and Bill to arrive – near Wiley Point. We had another great sail for the short 7nm trip and anchored very close to our previous spot. We did a nice dinghy ride to the south end of this bay and visited the Pirate Cave. That night after a quick wifi session, I found out that the wind was changing to north on Tuesday. We were planning to stay near Wiley Point for a few days and then head to the north east end of Providenciales but it’s not recommended to enter the Leeward Cut (or any north shore cut) with north or west winds so we pulled up anchor by 8am on March 11 and motored the 30nm around Providenciales. It was a crazy calm day and the ocean was smooth with long, low rolling waves! It was a wonderful trip around! All was going so well – we had a following current and we were able to motor in the low 7knots most of the way. We were ahead of schedule and just about to enter the narrow Leeward Canal (that has reefs on both sides and a fair bit of shoaling in spots) when the engine broke a fan belt and started immediately to overheat. Of course this couldn’t have happened when we were all alone on the ocean – Nope! It waited until we were entering the channel while 2 sailboats were coming out!! We did a quick turn away from the channel entrance, dropped anchor and shut off the engine. I radioed the outgoing sailboats to advise them of our situation and they manoeuvred around us. Mark quickly got us up and running again and we did the last 1.5nm to our anchorage without incident. We stopped just north of Blue Haven Marina between 2 islands – Mangrove Cay and Donna Cay. We’ve gone all the way around Providenciales in the first 5 days of Donalda and Bill’s visit.

Fish Fry Thursday-me, Bill and Donalda.
Bill is helping Mark with the spinnaker.
Spinnaker up and enjoying the ride.
We had some dolphin company for awhile.
Beautiful beaches – Brenard Bay, West Caicos
Sunset Brenard Bay March 8.
Dinghy ride along west coast of West Caicos
The mystery boat that approached us!!
Very rocky shore on West Caicos
Some interesting rock formations.
Anchored near Wiley Point March 9
Checking out Pirate Cave
Blue calm water on the Caicos banks as we head around the island to the north side.
Bill catches a fish on our trip around – it’s a barracuda! Darn
Sunset March 11 from our anchorage between Mangrove and Donna Cays.

Exploring Providenciales

It’s been quite awhile since my last post – darn limited wifi!! We only have a phone plan with 8 G of data so we have to be very careful to make sure it lasts the whole month.

We’ve had a very interesting start to our exploration of Providenciales. We’ve discovered a few things already and the biggest discovery is that Turks and Caicos is not a cruising destination. It’s definitely beautiful and has some awesome beaches with nice blue water, but it’s very shallow and only has a very limited number of protected anchorages.

We left South Side at high tide on Feb. 24 which made our exit significantly easier than our arrival. Our first stop was at Taylor Bay – a somewhat sheltered bay about 5 nm west of South Side Marina. This bay is right beside another popular anchorage called Sapodilla Bay. Both these anchorages are close to the government dock (the main commercial dock for Providenciales) and are very populated with villas, resorts and restaurants. It’s definitely very picturesque but also very touristy. It’s not the usual place we would anchor. We did dinghy to the beach and walked the length of it – quite nice. We also took a dinghy tour around the area and found some very interesting rock formations.

As the wind started to turn more east and south east, Taylor Bay became quite bouncy and rough so we decided to move to the west side of Providenciales for better protection. We left Taylor Bay at about 10 am on Feb. 28th. It was a very short distance (5nm) but because the Caicos Banks are so shallow, you can only get into some of these anchorages with high tide. We carefully made our way to an anchorage just south of Wiley Point and found a nice spot to anchor in about 9ft of water.

What a difference 5nm can make!!! We went from a rather touristy, congested area to a nature reserve where we were all by ourselves. We had several, long white beaches and some inland salt lakes to explore. The weather was perfect – sunny, hot and a good wind blowing to keep the boat cool. We spent a bit of time walking the beaches and one day we dinghied into the one salt lakes. We saw a couple of turtles and lots of mangroves. It was a fairly large lake but too shallow for our dinghy to go very far in.

We took advantage of our downtime to clean up the boat. We spent time cleaning and polishing all the stainless parts of the deck and the isinglass – the plastic window part of the cockpit enclosure. Mark worked on jobs that have been on the list for several years. We did an inventory of our pantry items and reorganized that area. We cleaned up the V-berth to make room for Donalda and Bill. It was a very productive time!

After the first few days in our Wiley Point anchorage, the wind began to increase from the east, making it difficult to explore much of the area. Although we were very comfortable on the big boat, riding in the dinghy was a wild, wet adventure. We did venture out to do some snorkeling but it proved to be just too wavy to get in the water. We did manage to check out all the beaches in the area and we saw a few beautiful red starfish on one dinghy ride.

By the time we decided to leave our lovely little spot, there were 8 other sailboats anchored with us. We have learned that most of the cruisers here are only in the area to wait for the next weather window to continue heading south. We met a young couple from Florida who said they were travelling with 5 other sailboats – all were heading further south.

Today (March 5) we moved a grand total of 5 nm from Sapodilla Bay to the marina. Again we had to wait until it was almost high tide and we still crossed over an area that was only 5.6ft deep. Good thing we only need 5ft😁😁. It’s nice to be back in the land of wifi!! We’re in the same spot on the dock and we had a great takeout dinner tonight. Tomorrow we’ll do laundry and finish getting the boat ready for our first guests. Donalda and Bill arrive on Thursday (March 7th) and will be with us until March 19. Time to explore more parts of Turks and Caicos.

Villas and resorts at Taylor Bay
The beach at Taylor Bay
Some interesting rocks, eroded by the tide (near Taylor Bay)
Sunset from Taylor Bay – is that a ship or a rock? It’s actually Turtle Rock – lots of diving happens around it.
On our way to the west side of Provo. This is West Harbour Bluff near Pirates Cove.
Sunset Feb. 28th from Wiley Point anchorage.
One of many beaches in the area.
Just can’t get enough beach photos.
Beautiful, clear water
So many beach photos!
There were 2 ship wrecks on the beaches.
Heading into one of the salt lakes.
Another view heading out of the salt lake
Happy boat!
Working on the stainless.
We had a full rainbow on March 2
Sunset March 5th, back at the marina.

Leaving the dock

We’ve had our few days of dock rest and are now ready to go explore the south side of Providenciales. In our short time here we did laundry, filled our water tanks, had a nice takeout dinner and today we rented a car to do some minor provisioning. We got a limited phone plan with 8 g of data and did some grocery shopping. We spent probably 3 hours getting all our shopping done and then having a nice lunch out.

The island is quite small so it didn’t take much time to drive to the different stops. It is a bit of a challenge because they drive on the left side of the road and they have these quasi round abouts. It took Mark a few turns through the round abouts to figure out who actually has the right away. All was good though – made it back to the marina with no issues and we only used $3.00 of gas!!

The marina has been quick busy since we arrived on Wednesday morning. We’ve watched many boat tours come and go from here – seadoo rentals, pontoon boat tours, and of course many diving excursions all load and return here. There has also been daily arrivals of other sailboats. Today a 33ft sailboat came in – we saw this boat in Clarence Town. The boat is sailed by a solo sailor from Canada. Mark helped him back his boat into the dock and get secured in what’s called a med mooring style of docking (stern against the pier with no dock access except from the stern).

In the morning we are heading out to explore the south side of Providenciales. There are a few anchorages we will visit and if the wind holds true, we’ll be able to stay on the south side until our return to the marina on March 6th. Donalda and Bill arrive on March 7th so we’ll be back at the dock. Unfortunately we won’t have wifi while at anchor for the next week and a half, so no posts until we return here on the 6th.

It’s quite hilly along the south coast.
South beautiful resorts have great ocean views.
We went for a walk near the marina. This lake is called Flamingo Lake.
Flamingo Lake is very shallow and quite long.
More Flamingo Lake – it’s really a salt water pond
We visited the Wine Cellar today.

Relaxing at South Side Marina

We made it!! 170 nm from Clarence Town to the Caicos Banks in 28 hours. The wind was northwest the whole journey with the waves pretty much in the same direction. We had all sails up and we were cruising along in the low 7knots for most of the time. It was a very quiet trip – only a few other AIS signals (boats in other words) were out on the water (mostly cargo ships) and we were fortunate to have a clear night with an almost full moon so even the night portion of our passage was easy.

The whole trip was 180nm (from Clarence Town to South Side Marina) and the last 10nm or so getting into our marina was a bit more interesting. The Caicos Banks are very shallow and have lots of coral heads and rocky areas to navigate. As soon as we crossed into the Sandbore Channel (this channel separates Providenciales and West Caicos and gives access to the Caicos Banks), the water depth dropped down to 20ft or so. Very quickly the depth decreased to less than 15ft, but not to worry – we had great visibility (through somewhat sleepy eyes!). Turks & Caicos still uses an old school radio arrival system. Each entering boat must hail “Provo Radio” when you are 12nm away from the islands. We did that and got no answer – it was early. So Mark tried again once we were actually on the Caicos Banks but still no answer even though we heard Provo Radio hailing other vessels. We decided to just do to our destination, South Side Marina and not worry about Provo Radio. We took our sails down about 20 minutes from our turn into the shallow route to South Side. Just when we were back on course, Provo Radio hailed us and went through a crazy number of questions (mostly ones we’d already answered online through Turks & Caicos’ online clear in). This delay definitely caused us a bit of precious mid tide time!!

Finally the questions were all answered and we were ready to turn onto the course to enter South Side Marina. We had been warned to come in no later than mid tide but preferably at high tide. Unfortunately high tide on Feb. 21 was 6 am and 6 pm – we were entering around 11am. All was good for the first part of the 2nm route with depths in the 10ft range. Mark slowed us down as the depth dropped to about 8ft and when we were in this part of the route, we ran aground!! Even though we were going fairly slow, we got stuck hard (and we were going to low tide – not great). Mark quickly hoisted the main sail to try to heel us over so we could motor off (either forward or reverse) – no luck! Up went the jib and we began to bounce and rock in place. Slowly we moved forward and were off the high spot. The rest of the trip into the marina was a nail biter – our draft is 5 ft (we need at least 5.1ft to not touch bottom) and at one point our depth metre said we were in 4.9ft of water!! I guess we were plowing sand at that point!! We finally reached the entrance green and red buoys and turned into the marina basin. We were secured to the dock and settled in by about 11:30am.

After lunch Mark had to check us in through customs and immigration. The 2 officers were at South Side earlier in the day so they had to return to check in us and 2 other vessels. Only the Captain of each ship goes ashore to check in – everyone else is supposed to stay onboard. So I cleaned up the interior of the boat (did dishes, put the main cabin back together because we set it up as a bed when doing long passages, removed all the pillows that were securing items during our passages) and then got connected to the wifi. Mark was back aboard by about 2 pm with our stamped passports but no cruising license. The officers didn’t have time to do that so they’ll come back later to give us our cruising permit for the 5 weeks we’ll be here.

It was a great trip over and to celebrate we ordered dinner from the on-site restaurant (Bob’s Bar and Eats), brought it back to the boat and had a bottle of bubbly!! Now we have 2 weeks to explore Providenciales before Donalda and Bill join us on March 7th to March 19th. Evelyn, Caroline and their friend Samantha will be aboard from March 20 – 27 so we’ll have lots of company here!!

Leaving Clarence Town 6:30 am Feb. 20 – northwest wind really pushed the waves into the harbour.
Cruising along – all sails up
Relaxing in the cockpit
Cloudy at first but the sun popped out late in the afternoon
Sunset Feb. 20 somewhere on the ocean!
The blue light is our wind generator and the white one is the moon! You can also just see our trilight at the top of the mast.
Sunrise Feb. 21
The south shore of Providenciales (Provo)
South Doc – the big commercial dock on Provo
Getting close to the marina entrance
Our boat caught a flying fish at some point during our passage!
South Side Marina (from the deck of Bob’s Bar and Eats)
Bob’s Bar and Eats!
Don’t get too close to the edge!
Crimson Kathryn happily resting at the dock.

Time to head to Turks & Caicos

We’ve enjoyed our stay here in the harbour at Clarence Town. The weather has been great – sunny and hot. We’re finally starting to see more normal temperatures for this time of year (28 degrees today) and we went for our first swim of the season.

We decided to go to shore on Saturday, Feb. 17 and it was the first time we were off the boat since leaving Big Major on Feb. 13. It felt good to walk around! The last time we were in Clarence Town, we were with Caroline and our friends Donalda and Bill Stevens. We were anchored on the west side of Long Island and rented a car for a day. We drove down to Clarence Town and had lunch at the Flying Fish Marina (it has a nice restaurant). The town hasn’t changed much in 4 years but it does seem a bit more deserted.

On this visit to town we were looking for Erica’s bakery. After much searching, we finally found the little shop relatively close to the dinghy dock (figures). It was a great little store with fresh bread and amazing pound cake! On our way back to the dinghy dock, Mark stopped at the little gas station to get an ice cream. While we were waiting there, we met 2 other couples from the anchorage. One couple was from Michigan and the other couple was from Germany and Switzerland. The Michigan folks were on their first Bahamas’ visit and the European couple were on their way back to the Dominican Republic where they store their sailboat. We had a great chat standing in the shade and ended up inviting both couples back to our boat for happy hour (which lasted until after 8pm). It was very interesting hearing both couples’ stories.

Today we went back to shore for some last minute items. We bought gas for the generator and the dinghy and filled a few water jugs. We went back to Erica’s for a few items and we checked out the Packing House! This warehouse sells local produce so we bought bananas and 2 papayas!! We arrived back at the boat just before lunch and spent the rest of the day getting ready to depart in the morning. I made chilli and banana bread for our passage and we have lots of leftovers for quick meals while underway.

It’s now 8pm Monday, Feb. 19 and we’re pretty much ready to pull up anchor in the morning. We’re hoping to leave around 6am and sail the 180nm to Turks & Caicos with a good northwest wind. We might pick up some cell signals as we travel past some of the outer islands but I’m not counting on it. It will take a few days to get wifi sorted in Providenciales but hopefully the wifi at South Side Marina will be good. Next post will be from Turks & Caicos in a few days! Don’t forget you can always reach us on the inreach device and follow our trail as we move along.

Morning sun over Strachan Cay (Clarence Town harbour)
Friday was spent working on the wiring for the lithium batteries
Clarence Town welcome sign near the dinghy dock.
Very nice and new dinghy dock.
Flying Fish Marina – pretty empty (and very expensive)
Old police station (we think)
Some crazy wave action on the east side of the harbour
Beach and swimming time!
This 57ft ketch came in beside us on Sunday. They anchored really close and then put on all the lights!! They moved a bit further out today!!
Lots of sharks hang around the dinghy dock and the marina looking for scraps as the fishermen clean their catch.
Papaya and banana – locally grown on Long Island

Island hopping south

Well like all good plans, this one was flexible. My last post said we were heading to Lee Stocking Island and then George Town. The wind favoured us going a different route so off we went heading east across the Emuxa Sound to Cat Island. We left the Big Major anchorage around 6:30am on Tuesday, Feb. 13 and headed to the cut just north of Staniel Cay (Big Rock Cut). It was a perfect wind/weather day for sailing the 54nm to Cat Island with the wind on the starboard aft quarter (wind and waves behind is called fair winds and following seas!). We had all sails up and with really good speed, we arrived at our new anchorage near New Bight, Cat Island by 4pm.

It was a quick overnight stop and we were up early again on Feb. 14 to make the 40nm jump to Conception Island. It was another downwind sail with the wind out of the northeast so it was on our port aft quarter. The first part of the sail was behind Cat Island so the waves were very small. We were really moving with all sails up and were sailing very flat (not heeled over) because of the wind direction and the small waves. Mark decided it was time to do some fishing. We’ve had good luck in this area in the past and Mark jokes that we seem to catch a mahi mahi in this general area once every two years. Well it was 2 years ago that we caught a mahi crossing back to George Town from Cat Island and wouldn’t you know, we caught another one crossing in front of the south end of Cat Island. It was a big one – 40 inches and 11 lbs. We had a very lovely Valentine’s dinner – fresh fish!!!

The last island hop of this new route was going south from Conception to Clarence Town (which is on the south east side of Long Island). We were expecting the wind to shift more to the east and to decrease in strength over the day. We decided to only deploy the jib and mizzen which worked great for the first few hours but it didn’t take long for the waves to build (probably 1.5m waves) and our speed to drop. We turned into the wind (that was exciting with those large waves) and Mark hoisted the main sail and we continued to Clarence Town. The wind didn’t decrease and we made really good time, arriving around 4pm. We followed the supply ship into the harbour so we might be able to get some fresh produce.

So what’s the plan now – we’re in a great position to make the 30 hour (180nm) passage to Providenciales (Turks & Caicos). The wind is looking good for a downwind sail leaving here around 6am on Feb. 20 which should get us into South Side Marina around 12pm on Feb. 21. We’re watching the wind and weather closely!

Sunrise over Staniel Cay Feb. 13
Almost at Big Rock Cut
Our friends Jane and Steve were anchored close to Big Rock Cut and Jane managed to snap a shot of us just in the cut. Zoom in to the middle and you’ll see us. Thanks for the photo, Jane.
Nice easy sail to Cat Island.
Sunset at Cat Island Feb. 13. That white spot is the moon.
Overcast and cool morning heading to Conception Island.
Getting the sails ready to hoist.
Dinner!! Mr Mahi put up a fight. Mark won.
Messy job – you catch it, you clean it!
Anchored at Conception Feb. 14
A bit of a rolly ride south to Clarence Town.
Our anchorage in the Clarence Town harbour.
Clarence Town.
Celebrating our 3 day passage with nachos and beer (or wine in my case).

Waiting for the wind

Since leaving New Providence, we’ve had some great sailing days. The wind has been strong and the sailing has been salty (lots of water on the deck) but we’ve made it all the way to Staniel Cay and are now waiting for the south wind to turn west so we can jump down to Lee Stocking Island and then George Town.

Our first stop after leaving the dock was Hawksbill Cay (Feb. 8). This island is inside the Exuma Land and Sea Park. We arrived in the afternoon and had no trouble finding a good spot to anchor amongst the mooring balls. There were 4 other boats already in the anchorage and we were joined by a few more later in the afternoon. It was a calm, quiet stop. It was nice to be back at anchor!

We took our time leaving Hawksbill in the morning because we only had about 28nm to travel south to Staniel Cay. It was another salty sailing day with the wind blowing 15 – 20 knots from the east. Unfortunately, we were heading south east and the wind direction made it very difficult for us to sail. After trying for over an hour, we ended up motor sailing with just the main sail still up. This was the first time we’ve been able to sail on that tack (boat heeled over so the port side is out of the water)!! Mark’s new engine thru hull worked like a charm and the engine stayed nice and cool because it had loads of water! We got into the anchorage at Big Major around 2pm and found a good spot to anchor.

Saturday morning (Feb. 10) we launched the dinghy and headed to Staniel Cay. It was laundry day!! It took most of the morning to do our laundry but while the clothes were in the dryer, we managed to get to the little grocery stores and to pick up our bread order!! My friend Jane told me about this bakery on Staniel that you can email in your order. I did just that on Friday afternoon. We ordered so much bread: 2 plain loaves, 2 coconut loaves, 1 cinnamon raisin loaf plus 2 chocolate chip banana breads and 2 coconut banana breads! All these loaves are now in our freezer to be shared with our guests when we are in Turks & Caicos!!

It’s Super Bowl Sunday (those of you who follow football are probably very aware of this) – we had no idea until we saw all the booze moving around Staniel Cay on Saturday. Everywhere we looked, someone was carrying a case of beer and other bottles. I forgot to mention that the laundry mat is also a liquor store (strange I know) so there was lots of action there. There will be several parties on the island tonight! Time to light the boat up like a Christmas tree so all those drunken fools in powerboats don’t hit us on their way home tonight!!😁 We’ll celebrate by not going to a party and relaxing on our boat instead.

Our plans for getting to Turks & Caicos are starting to take shape. On Tuesday, Feb. 13, we’ll jump down to Lee Stocking Island. The next day we’ll get to George Town and then wait for favourable wind to either jump to Conception Cay or maybe go the south route to Long Island and then Crooked Island. It all depends on the wind!!

Sailing from New Providence to Hawksbill
I’m at the helm as we head to Hawksbill Cay.
Leaving Hawksbill on Feb. 9.
Relaxing at the helm – not really. Just keeping his balance.
All sails up Feb. 9 – for a little while anyhow.
My turn to relax!
Sunset from Big Major on Feb. 9
Staniel Cay Yacht Club
New school near the laundry mat.
The supply ship was in at the government dock Saturday Feb. 10
Mount Olivet Baptist Church on Staniel Cay.
Look at all that yummy bread!
Not sure about this vessel – Radar Love. Someone’s private yacht.

Back aboard CK

It was a very quick trip home this past weekend but an incredibly satisfying visit!! Evelyn is now a PhD and Caroline is enjoying her new job! We had a fabulous dinner with Mark’s Dad, Caroline, Evelyn and Liam (Evelyn’s partner). All in all it was an awesome trip home but now it’s time to make some serious distance!! Turks & Caicos is calling!

We arrived back at the private dock on Sunday, Feb. 4 around 2pm and saw that another sailboat had come in and was rafted beside us. It turned out that a third sailboat was coming in so we were being moved from the dock position to the outside position (because we were leaving before the other 2 boats). It wasn’t difficult to reverse from the dock and get out of the way so the second boat could be pulled to the dock. The new arrival moved into the middle spot and then we slowly came along side them. We are tied to the middle sailboat with spring lines and also to the dock and shore with a bow line and stern line – nice and secure! This 3 abreast set-up means Mark and I have to walk over 2 other boats to get to shore – not my favourite thing to do!! The last boat (the one tied to the dock) is in rough shape and their decks are very cluttered which makes it challenging to cross.

Early in the week, we had decided to stay until Thursday (Feb. 8) because of weather (it was a very good decision). Starting Tuesday and continuing today, the Bahamas has had some crazy high winds! On Tuesday night some places saw hail and wind gusts of 65 knots. Our friends Jane and Steve are in the Exumas and they lost a solar panel in the storm that night. We’ve been super lucky here because we are so sheltered that we haven’t experienced any really high winds.

It’s been awhile since we’ve done a large grocery shopping (basically since we left the USA) so our fridge was pretty empty when we got back. We teamed up with our rafting partners (the boat beside us), Caroline and Mario (from Montreal) and rented a car from a friend of the dock owner, Carolyn. On Tuesday we drove into Nassau and bought lots of produce and other yummy items. We also stopped at a liquor store on our way back!! It’s really nice having access to a car – last night we had pizza from Dominos. Mark and Mario picked it up!!

Our plan now is to leave here around 8am tomorrow morning (Feb. 8th) and head to Hawksbill Cay. We’ll continue to move south the next day and stop at Staniel Cay. We probably won’t have any wifi at Hawksbill because it is inside the Exuma Land and Sea park (no cell towers), but we’ll be back in business once we reach Staniel.

Mark loves this car – it’s very close to our dock.
I like the gate across the street from the car.
Look closely at all the little fish in the foreground of the photo.
The 3 boats rafted together.
Coral Harbour beach – we took a walk today.
The water on this side of the island is super calm! Not so much on the north side with this north wind.
Walking towards the defence force base.

A little dock time

It never hurts to give the boat a little rest after some pretty windy and wavy passages. Our crossing on Jan. 28th from Bond Cay to the east side of New Providence was good but wet. The wind came around from south to be more southwest and we were able to sail most of the 36nm. The waves were fairly big but at a good angle so we weren’t pounding into them. All in all, it was a good crossing.

We reached the east side of Athol Island at 4pm and decided not to anchor at that cay. Instead, we went across the channel to the north east side of New Providence. We anchored here last year so were familiar with the anchor holding – it would be good! We were expecting the southwest wind to clock overnight to northwest and to strengthen to 20+ knots. We were hopeful this location would be okay in that wind direction. The predicted blow showed up around 3am and really got going by mid morning. The anchorage wasn’t too bad (a bit bouncy) and our holding was excellent. It was a good place for the night but we were happy to move on in the morning.

The trip around to the south west side of New Providence was about 20nm – not too bad. The first part of this trip we had the strong winds “on the beam” which means the wind was perpendicular to the boat. This is great for speed but leads to lots of heeling. It was another wet ride with waves flying over the bow and splashing our dodger. At these times I’m always thankful for our enclosure!!!

The last leg of our trip, along the south side of New Providence, was more into the wind. The motor went on and the sails came down and we spent the next 2 hours (or so) running into waves and being slowed down by the wind. It was great to finally see the canal into Coral Harbour (which is where the dock is located) and to head in off the rough water.

The mouth of this canal has 2 interesting features – a derelict apartment building and a Bahamian Defence Force base. Once inside the entrance, the canals become quite narrow with the occasional sunken boat to negotiate. We were taking it slow through the canals as I was putting out dock lines and fenders. We were barely around one corner when a Bahamian diving boat came up behind us. Mark moved over the best he could and the boat passed us. Turns out their dock (and shop) are right across from our dock! We see a lot of these dive boats as they go in and out all day!!

Crimson Kathryn’s home for the next week (ish) is on a dock at a private home. The couple who rent out dock space (and provide a wonderful service and atmosphere for cruisers) have lived in the Bahamas for 60 years (they’re originally from Britain). They have room for 3 boats on their docks and then they “raft” other boats to the docked boats. Right now there are 7 boats here (2 just arrived this afternoon)!! Our first night here (which was last night, Jan. 29), there was a happy hour where we met the other boaters. There is one empty boat, one man from England on a power boat, a French Canadian couple on a catamaran and 2 French Canadian men on a monohull. Today we were joined by 2 American boats – one power and one sailboat. The sailboat is tied up to us and it’s a young couple on a new to them sailboat.

We’re definitely getting excited to go home on Thursday to see the girls and Mark’s Dad! Lots going on – Caroline starts a new job on Thursday and Evelyn’s “smackdown – PhD defence” is on Friday!! Can’t wait!! I’ll be posting again when we return!

Lots of splashes as we cross to New Providence.
South east side of New Providence.
Smacking into the waves as we motored along the south side of New Providence.
Derelict apartment building.
Entrance to the canal and just part of the Defence Force base.
Carolyn and Nick Wardle’s house beside their docks.
CK at the end of the dock.
We walked out for groceries today and saw these beautiful flowers.
Mark had to stop for a hot dog on our way back from shopping.
The dive shop across from us, plus the 2 other Canadian boats on the dock with us.
View of the canal behind us!
Our dock partner – rafted beside us! Yes they have to walk over our boat to get to shore – kind of weird, I’m not going to lie!