Crimson Kathryn and her crew

Lots has happened since my last post and we have travelled more than 70 nm in the last 5 days! We were hanging out with the Aga Khan (well anchored near his island) on Sunday, March 27th and now we’re in Nassau at Nassau Harbour Club marina.

Our sail up from Bell Island to Hawksbill Cay on Monday, March 28, was awesome. We had good wind in a great direction and were able to sail the whole time. There were lots of boats on the move and we had fun catching some (we had all 3 sails up and were moving) and being passed by others. The weather was great and with the strong winds, we reached our anchorage at Hawksbill Cay around 1pm. We had a bit of fun getting into the anchorage because we arrived at low tide. The boat actually rubbed the sandy bottom twice on the way in but we ended up anchoring in about 7ft of water. The anchorage was quite lovely and it was very calm. We spent 2 nights here and on the second day (Tuesday) our friends Jane and Steve came in for one night. We did a fun dinghy ride that day and relaxed for happy hour on our boat.

After a bit of discussion with Jane and Steve, we decided to use the upcoming south winds to move all the way to Nassau (a bit earlier then originally planned). We needed to go to Nassau to find a part for our navigational network system. So early Wednesday (March 30) we pulled up anchor and sailed the 45 nm from Hawksbill Cay to Rose Island.

We had another great sail although it was a bit more rolly because the wind was mostly behind us. We were seeing some awesome speeds as we rolled down waves and managed to reach Rose Island by 2pm that afternoon. Our plan was to anchor one night at Rose Island and then head into the marina for 2 nights. Well that one night at Rose Island was a very long one!! We had all kinds of swell (waves that are left over from previous weather) surging into our anchorage from the east and it caused our boat to rock side to side all night long. It’s very difficult to sleep in this kind of motion, so it was a very long night. Needless to say, we were up early and heading to the Nassau Harbour Club marina by 8 am on Thursday March 31.

We have stayed at this marina several times in the past and it is nicely located across the street from a very good grocery store, a Starbucks, a good liquor store and there are several marine stores in walking distance – everything we needed!! We headed to the marine store as soon as the laundry was done and our water tanks were filled. We got super lucky because the first store had the part we needed!! Excellent! Next we stopped at Starbucks for a coffee and then did grocery and wine shopping! We ended the day with a pizza from Dominos!!

One of the best things that happened with our early arrival in Nassau was that we were able to meet up with Mark’s sister Christine!! Christine and her husband Rob arrived at Paradise Island (on the north side of Nassau Harbour) on Monday March 28th. Also travelling with them was their daughter Kathryn and her son August. We spent a few hours with them today (April 1) at the Atlantis Resort. The resort was very impressive – lots of hotels, shops, big mega yachts, water slides and of course beaches. Christine gave us a tour of the resort and we got a chance to catch up on all the news from home! It was great to chat and share lunch with them. It was a wonderful way to end our visit to Nassau!!

In the morning we will be heading further north to the Berry Island chain. It should be a good day of sailing with our spinnaker (if the winds are as low as predicted). We’ll spend a few days exploring this area before we continue to move north, looking for that good crossing window!

We’ve had 3 great days in the O’Briens Cay area and have truly enjoyed everything we’ve seen here. We have explored O’Brien’s Cay, the Pirates Lair at Warderick Wells Cay and swam in the caves at Rocky Dundas. All these adventures required some long distance dinghy rides – always a lot of fun.

Exploration number 1 was on O’Brien Cay. We took the dinghy to the north end of the island and walked across the island to the sound side. There were no beaches on that side but some very interesting rocks! From a second beach (just beside the first one we stopped at) we discovered an interior pond that you really couldn’t see from the water. It was super cool and we walked all the way around it. We were here at low tide so it was very easy to get in and out.

On Saturday we took our longest dinghy ride and travelled about 4 nm up to the south east anchorage at Warderick Wells Cay. This area is called the Pirates Lair. The story is that pirates would anchor and go ashore in this area because the island has fresh water wells. The anchorage itself was very pretty with deep water but also lots of current. It was quite protected from wind and there were 3 mooring balls for cruisers to use. We went ashore and walked across the south tip of the island to Turtle Beach. We saw a few fresh water wells as we walked along the trail. There was one catamaran in the anchorage – we had a brief chat with the man and found out they were from Montreal! Lots of Canadians down here!

Today we decided to leave the O’Briens Cay mooring ball and headed very slightly south to anchor in front of Bell Island (the island owned by the Aga Khan). From this new spot, we took another dinghy ride over to Rocky Dundas – 2 small islands near Compass Cay that have great coral and some caves. There were 2 dinghy moorings so we tied our dinghy to one of them and went exploring. We snorkeled into the 2 caves and were so impressed by what we saw. I only wish I could have brought my phone in to take a few photos – it was quite spectacular! The coral on the outside was also very cool!!

This will be our last night in this area and I feel like we have done a great job exploring it. In the morning (Monday), we’ll be heading north again, this time to Hawksbill Cay. This will be our first visit to Hawksbill so that’s exciting. We’ll probably be there for a few days but may not have wifi.

This has been a very interesting few days as we’ve explored areas of the Exumas that are new. Our first stop was Pipe Creek – Thomas Cay anchorage. We joined our friends Jane and Steve in this anchorage on Tuesday March 22. It’s a tricky spot to get into because of shallow water but we had no trouble (came in at high tide). It’s also a challenging spot to anchor- relatively narrow with lots of current. It took a few tries but we finally got settled in a spot we thought was good. Later that night, the boat turned with the tide and we swung very close to the catamaran beside us. Mark stayed up to wait for the next tide change just to keep an eye of our position (we were fine).

In the morning, we went for a good walk on Thomas Cay with Jane and Steve. This island has several good trails that lead out to the Sound side. It’s always interesting to check out the views from the different cays. As we approached the second beach, our progress was halted by a big male goat. He stood quite still and watched us, ready to give us a good chasing if we got too close to his family – a female and 2 kids. We gave them a wide berth and continued along the trail to the next beach. No shortage of places to walk on this island.

After much discussion, Mark and I decided to leave Pipe Creek on Thursday, March 24. The current is very strong and our full keel boat was doing some crazy moving – including drifting into shallow water and then riding over our anchor so it was behind the stern. We left around 12pm today with the high tide and motored our way slightly further north to Cambridge Cay. We arrived at Cambridge only to find the anchorage very busy so we decided to continue even further north to O’Brien’s Cay.

So here we are – in another new location! We’re on a mooring ball and are the only boat around! This spot is very close to the aquarium – a deep pool that has amazing coral and fish. We plan to swim the aquarium and maybe dinghy back to Cambridge Cay at some point. We’ll probably be here for the weekend so we have time to explore the area.

Now that we are over halfway through March, we are making our way north, up the Exuma Islands. It’s time to get ourselves back to Grand Bahamas so we can cross back to Jacksonville. This has been an awesome season and we still have more exploring to do on the trip north.

After our cave adventure, we headed up to Black Point Settlement on Great Guana Cay. I have talked about this place earlier because we stopped here on our way down. We did some laundry and had a lovely brunch at one of the restaurants in town. The anchorage was packed with boats when we arrived on Saturday but by the time we left Sunday afternoon, about 1/2 of the boats had departed. Like us, a lot of boats are heading north!

Today we are happily anchored back at Big Majors Spot which is the large anchorage next to Staniel Cay. We came in yesterday afternoon and found a great place to anchor that is fairly close to shore – nice and protected! We went into Staniel Cay this morning to do a bit of shopping and on our way in, we saw a dinghy rowing, with some difficulty, towards the shore. We went over to see if the couple needed help and sure enough, their dinghy motor had quit on them. We towed them into Staniel Cay Yacht Club and then did a bit of shopping with the woman, Jane, while Jane’s husband John, tried to get the motor fixed. It was our good deed for the day.

It was a really good thing that we went shopping this morning because we had a doozy of a rain storm this afternoon. We had about 3 squalls with lots of rain and a bit of strong wind (a few gusts 20 knots). The best part was that we were dry inside the boat and the decks got a much needed washing!! Our anchor held well – the manson is desperately trying to redeem itself after the Cat Island fiasco.

In the morning we are making our way a whole 7nm north to Pipe Creek (a new anchorage for us). Here we will be reconnecting with our friends Jane and Steve on Daydreams ll. This is one of their favourite anchorages so we look forward to exploring the area. We have a few days of strong winds coming up so our next move is still undecided. We are aiming for a mid April return to the USA (April 18 is the next full moon and if it’s visible, it would make a nice crossing environment!) so we have to be up near West End, Grand Bahamas Island before that time.

This post is all about the caves!! We’ve had a few days of restful exploration back in the Exumas, starting with Rudder Cut Cay. This area is known for a few things – Musha Cay which is owned by David Copperfield and the piano & mermaid. When David Copperfield first resided in the Bahamas, people would come to his island to check things out! So to give people something else to look at, Copperfield commissioned Jason deCaires Taylor to created a sculpture of a piano and mermaid. This sculpture is about 2nm south of Musha Cay and it was just south of our anchorage at Rudder Cut Cay.

The Rudder Cut Cay anchorage was very interesting because lots of boats would arrive in the morning and early afternoon. They would check out the piano and then either leave right away or head out first thing in the morning. It was fun to watch the outgoing and incoming boats as they tried to find the perfect spot. It turned out that this spot was less then perfect. With the wind from the south east, we had lots of waves and it was pretty rough the whole time we were there. We did get the chance to snorkel the piano and mermaid and to look at some of the interesting caves in the area.

Today, Friday, March 18, we decided to head north to Great Guana Cay (the home of Black Point Settlement which we’ve visited already this season) and to anchor at Oven Rock. This southern part of Great Guana has an interior cave that (apparently) is 500ft deep. We reached our destination around 10:30am and went ashore to explore the cave. It was very cool – we have no idea how this cave was originally found but the trail to it is well established. We walked up the hillside and then down into the cave and swam in salty cave water. It was dark but still visible – a bit creepy but very interesting. After our swim in the cave, we walked out to a sound side beach that was very secluded and lovely. We packed a lunch, sat on the beach and enjoyed this spot all by ourselves!! It’s rare to have any of these ‘touristy” areas by yourself, so we enjoyed every minute.

Once we returned to the boat, we decided to move further north to get away from the rolly water we were experiencing at Oven Rock. We moved back up to Little Bay where we anchored several weeks ago. It’s very interesting to be travelling north by the same route as you travelled south. We’ve only done this once before when we went home because of Covid. Now we get the chance to leisurely explore areas we missed on the way down as we make our way slowly back north!

I don’t usually post so close to my last one but today was a special day. After my last post that talked about one of our worst days here in the Bahamas, I thought it would be nice to post about an amazing day!!

We left New Bight early this morning (Tuesday) – around 7:30am. It took a bit of time to get our fortress anchor on deck (it took both of us!!) and to secure it to our safety lines. Once it was up and secured, we motored about 1 hour until we were out of the Bight of Cat Island. The wind was predicted to be from the south east (a good direction) with about 10 – 15 knots of wind. Well, the direction was good but we didn’t see that much wind all day. We were able to motor sail with our jib!

It was a very nice trip across the sound to Rudder Cut Cay (in the Exumas). The jib did a good job of moving us forward while adding a bit of stability against the waves. The sun was out and it was a nice day to travel back to the Exumas.

Whenever we travel across deep waters – the Exuma Sound is 2000ft plus deep – we like to put our fishing line out. This is called trolling – the fishing line just drags out behind you. Mark is the captain of fishing and he looks after the whole process. Today, we started fishing as soon as we left the Bight and continued most of the way across the sound. Mark diligently changed the lures he was using every 30 minutes or so. At one point we talked about turning into the wind “if” we caught a fish because we had a sail up and waves rolling us from the stern. In my head I thought okay I’ll turn into the wind – but how far and for how long….I left those questions for later – didn’t want to jinx things.

We were about 5 nm from Rudder Cut (the entrance off of the sound) when the fishing line went off (with lure # 5 or 6). We turned into the wind which slowed us down and stopped us from rolling side to side. Mark worked for a good 15 minutes reeling in the fish he just caught. You never know what you’re catching but as the fish got closer, we could tell it was a big Mahi!! This was only the second mahi we have caught- it’s very cool.

So tonight we had fresh fish for dinner!! This certainly makes up for the little problems we had in New Bight and makes us super happy we are back in the Exumas!

Where to start – okay so we were anchored in the south east end of the bight at Cat Island and had to move to the north end for the changing weather (winds changing from south east to north east). We decided to make this move after our restaurant lunch on Saturday. We took our dinghy to shore at noon only to find out that the Bahamian Prime Minister was making a surprise visit to the resort so the restaurant was closed. We were very happy for the little resort to have such a special visitor but no lunch for us!! We headed back to the boat, had lunch and moved up to the New Bight anchorage a little head of schedule. This is when things started to fall apart.

The wind had already picked up and changed directions. It was now coming from the south west and plowing straight into the New Bight anchorage – big waves bouncing everyone around! Many boats from our south spot had already moved up, joining the boats that were already anchored so it made finding a good spot to anchor a little more challenging. It is important to drop your anchor into the wind and because the wind was coming from the south west, we had to anchor with our bow facing out and our stern facing the beach. That’s not the usual way to anchor and it’s definitely more difficult. Most times you anchor with boats in front or beside you facing the shore (more or less). This time we had to turn away from shore, move out in front of the other boats and try to judge the distance from our stern to the other boats (while keeping in mind you have to drop anchor, let out 75 – 100ft of chain and then back down on it!). Oh and I forgot to mention that earlier in the morning, our plotter stopped working! Mark managed to get most of it up and running before we headed to New Bight except for the depth sounder (tricky to anchor when you don’t know how deep the water is!!). Time to trust the maps for water depth!

We found a great spot – close enough in to be sheltered and no boat directly behind us. We got into position and lower our (so far) amazing new manson anchor and the darn thing wouldn’t grab!! We were bouncing so much and being blown back so fast that the manson anchor just couldn’t dig in. We tried 5 times – changed locations 3 times and finally decided to change anchors. Our next best anchor is a Fortress danforth style anchor. It was on the bow until we bought the manson in November. The fortress was taken apart and stored under the floor in the main cabin. So while I manned the helm and kept us from dragging too far backwards (into the shallow water), Mark reassembled the anchor and attached it to our secondary anchor line which is 30ft of chain and then rope (this line is attached to the second anchor on our bow which is a cqr anchor – it’s not a great anchor but it’s the only one that fits on the bow with the fortress or the manson).

Once the new anchor was in position (basically just sitting on deck at the bow), the manson had to be retrieved (it was still in the water doing a crappy job!!). So we motored forward, brought in the manson and then Mark literally lifted the fortress onto the cap rail and pushed it off the side of the bow (there was no space for it up there). A big splash and the line started paying out. First attempt – success!! We were finally anchored way off to the side away from all the other boats (just in case). By this time it was close to dinner – we were tired but happy!

The expected wind change (from south west to north east) happened overnight which meant our anchor had to reset itself as the boat turned (something this fortress has failed at in the past). So at about 4 am our anchor alarm went off (we can set an alarm to tell us if the boat has moved from its original spot – very handy alarm). With the wind direction change the anchor dislodged and couldn’t reset – we were dragging about 1ft/second out into the bay. At least we were moving away from all the other boats and into deeper water! So we started the engine, motored up to the anchor and started to bring the rope line back on deck. This was quite the challenge – it was dark, windy and the anchor line was not on our windlass (the device that winds in our chain and anchor). Mark had to pull the rope by hand until he got to the chain portion. At that point Mark could use the windlass to get the anchor up. We had to drop the anchor twice before we got it to hold again!! By this time it was 5 am and we were both exhausted!! The good news is that the fortress anchor held all day yesterday and is still good today!!

Tomorrow morning we will be sailing out of New Bight (with a sigh of relief) and heading back to the Exumas. The wind is predicted to be from the south east so we should have a great sail back across the Sound. We’re heading to Rudder Cut Cay where we’ll stay for a few days to explore the area! Here’s hoping for an easy sail and a successful anchoring!!!

Our crossing from Red Shanks to Cat Island on March 10 was great. We had good wind from the south east and were able to sail all the way across the Exuma Sound and into our anchorage (within 1.5 miles of our final resting spot!). It was a beautiful day – the wind and sun cooperated to give us a great sail. It did get a bit wavy about half way across and those waves continued until we were behind the south tip of Cat Island. We were fortunate that wind and waves were moving in the same direction so we rocked a bit but the wind kept us moving forward at a good speed.

We are currently anchored in the south east corner of the Bight – a large bay at the south end of Cat Island. As we travelled across the sound, we could see many other boats heading this way and we are now anchored with most of them. It’s a very large area so it doesn’t feel crowded at all. Today we explored a little creek near us called Joe Sound Creek and it had a very nice beach on the east side of the creek. We had a good walk along the beach and saw lots of shells. We also found several large holes – no idea what is using these holes but if it’s a crab, I don’t want to meet one on the beach!!

As usual we are expecting another slight blow Sunday and Monday from the north/north east, so tomorrow (Saturday) we will move to New Bight. This anchorage is in the same bay just on the north end so we will have better protection from the wind. We will also be close to the town and can do a bit of shopping and maybe some laundry. Before we leave this anchorage, we are having lunch at this little resort (Rollezzz Beach Resort) that’s very close to our current spot. It should be fun.

Our plans moving forward keep changing (the nature of sailing). We originally wanted to sail to Conception Cay, Rum Cay and Crooked Island – all of these are south east of Cat Island. Unfortunately, the prevailing wind in the Bahamas is east and we’ve been seeing a lot of south east. So it looks like we may be heading back to the Exumas to explore some areas we’ve missed in previous seasons.

We’ve had a great stay here at Red Shanks but it’s now time to move on to other islands. We’ve done a lot of weather watching and wind watching to figure out where to go next. This morning our plan was to head to Long Island but tonight we’ve decided to sail to Cat Island. Tomorrow’s wind is predicted to be about 15knots (gusting to 20knots) from the south east which is perfect for sailing to Cat Island. If we went to Long Island, we would be motoring into the wind (and waves) all the way. We are very excited to be heading out again and to revisit Cat Island.

The sad part of our departure tomorrow is that our friends Jane and Steve (on Daydreams ll) will not be travelling with us. They have decided to start heading north to explore parts of the Exumas that they haven’t seen yet and to revisit some of their favourite spots. So in the morning, we will head north east to Cat Island and Daydreams will head north west to Lee Stocking Island. We will definitely catch up with them at some point before we jump back to the USA. So we wish them fair winds and following seas as they enjoy the Exumas!

Crimson Kathryn is mostly packed up and secured for an early morning departure. We should have good wifi at Cat Island so we’ll send another post once we’re there. But for now, here are some photos from the past few days.

It’s a good thing we are tucked away in our favourite George Town anchorage – Red Shanks – because it has been blowing like crazy for 3 days!! Our wonderful big anchor has held strong against the 20 – 25 knot winds that have gusted into the low 30 knots. This anchorage is well protected from the wave action that comes with wind so we have been quite settled in here! It does make for a bit of a wet dinghy ride but that’s okay!

One of the big pluses of these windy days is that our wind generator has been working overtime. We have power to burn and so, using our new inverter, we were able to turn on our hot water tank and have real showers and wash dishes with hot water – the little things really make a difference when you’re on a boat!! After our last big blow at Cambridge Cay where the wind generator kept us awake, Mark contacted the manufacturer and found a solution to that problem. Now we put the brake on at night so the wind generator doesn’t spin and we can sleep!!

We’ve managed to keep ourselves entertained during this blow by doing little jobs and getting out in the dinghy a bit. Right in front of us is a small island called Moss Cay. It has a nice beach that faces east and a sandy area on the west side where you can leave your dinghy. We went over there on Saturday – I walked the beach and Mark worked on the dinghy motor. Mark added these fins just above the propeller on the motor that are supposed to help your dinghy plane better. And guess what – it works really well!! We had some fun planing around our anchorage!!

We’ve also done some socializing and baking this weekend! Our friends Jane and Steve joined us here at Red Shanks on Friday and we had happy hour with them that night. On Saturday Mark baked some brownies and I made focaccia! And then last night (Sunday), we headed over to Jane and Steve’s for dinner and a movie. It was loads of fun and we watched a classic (must watch) sailors’ movie called “Captain Ron”, starring Kurt Russell and Martin Short. This movie makes all other sailors look (and feel) good!! It was a fun night.